My husband and I try to explore a few new-to-us National Parks throughout the country each year. Big Bend had long been on our list — part of its appeal being Marfa and other funky little towns surrounding the gigantic wilderness. It felt like the perfect road trip opportunity.
But if you want a stunning national park all to yourself and a weekend in a quirky artists’ community with fantastic food, this trip is worth doing. Here’s how to do West Texas in three to four days.
Wednesday: From Big City to Big Skies
It was still sweltering in mid-September but not yet filled with the October-onward crowds. Our day started early with an easy, cheap Southwest flight from Nashville to Midland via a quick connection in Dallas. We were in our rental car and on the road before noon.
You need a car here, and a comfy one at that. This is the trip to spring for the larger SUV. We headed south through miles and miles of open land dotted with nodding oil rigs and pick-up trucks as far as the eye can see.
We had planned to stop at the rustic-chic Gage Hotel in the tiny town of Marathon for a late lunch, but the restaurant was closed. This was our first run-in with a pillar of West Texas culture: business hours vary greatly, especially in the off-season. Coffee shops, stores, and cafes adopt an attitude of “whenever we feel like being open,” so check social media for the latest.
Just a short drive away, Bread Garden Bakery in Alpine saved the day with coffee and a snack before we pushed on to Terlingua (pronounced tair-LING-gwah). If you plan on packing lunches for your Big Bend hikes, definitely stock up on groceries at Lowe’s Market in Alpine.
The ghost town of Terlingua feels like an old Western movie frozen in time. The sprawling desert, the scattered ruins of old mining buildings, and the far-off silhouette of Big Bend in the distance evoked a mystical atmosphere as we drove toward Willow House in the late afternoon.
We checked into our private casita and wandered the property in awe. Willow House was founded when a young SMU grad, Lauren Werner, discovered that this magical place called Big Bend had no cool places to stay nearby. She’s created this haven for explorers, stocked with games, tunes, and infinite places to sit and soak up the sights and sounds of West Texas.
Thursday: Exploring Big Bend’s Wild Beauty
Thursday was dedicated to exploring the untamed national park. We grabbed coffee and packed sandwiches in Willow House’s impeccably stocked communal kitchen and made our way to the Maverick Junction Entrance just six miles away. Our mission was to hike the South Rim Trail Loop, a 13-mile loop trail with stunning views and varied terrain.
The hike was long and breathtaking in multiple ways. The landscape is a mosaic of cacti-filled desert, rocky canyons, and mountain vistas. We crossed paths with just a handful of people but had plenty of wildlife encounters — two bears and a couple of furry tarantulas. By the time we finished the loop, we were exhausted, sun-soaked, and hungry.
Back in Terlingua, we refueled with some no-frills Texas fare at DB’s Rustic Iron BBQ. Locals and their dogs hang out in clusters of folded chairs, enjoying brisket plates and Mexican beers in the heavily fanned garage.
That evening, we grabbed tacos at one of the only other dinner spots, El Gordo’s Grill, a favorite local food truck with covered picnic tables.
Friday: Window Trail and Artsy Marfa
Friday began with another spectacular sunrise and one last Big Bend hike. The Window Trail leads you through meadows and into a rocky canyon, culminating in a natural “window” that perfectly frames the vast desert below.
After we showered, packed up, and Venmo-ed for some merch at Willow House, we hit the road again, heading toward Marfa. We just got gas in Alpine, but make the pit stop at Joe Crow Coffee to stretch your legs if you didn’t see Alpine on the way in.
Marfa was only a few hours away, and we were ready to settle into our home for the next two nights. El Cosmico is a one-of-a-kind mixed-lodging hotel with vintage trailers, teepees, and yurts scattered across the property.
After exploring the grounds, we headed to the Marfa Spirit Company and then across the street to kooky Planet Marfa for some well-earned beverages and fabulous people-watching. Dinner downtown at Margaret’s was the best meal of our entire trip.
Saturday: Burritos, Art, and Prada
We kicked off Saturday with a visit to the “Anthony Bourdained” Marfa Burrito, a small, no-fuss spot where the burritos are as big as your head and just as delicious as you’d expect in West Texas. Then, it was time for some serious art. Chinati Foundation, home to Donald Judd’s (and other renowned artists’) massive installations, is one of the primary reasons Marfa is known as an art destination.
The only way to see most of the iconic installations arranged throughout the expansive minimalist buildings is to book the $20-per-person two-and-a-half-hour tour. You can leave the tour anytime, but we stayed until the final stop downtown and were so glad we did.
Following art and shopping, we fueled up with coffee at The Sentinel, a cozy local hang spot with delicious espresso, chai, and books and curios to shop. A late lunch at Bordo is a Marfa MUST. They serve gourmet Italian sandwiches, pastas, and gelato from a retrofitted 1930s service station. Of course, no trip to Marfa is complete without a drive to Valentine, TX, to see Prada Marfa.
Though we didn’t make it to the UT Austin-run McDonald Observatory for a nightly “star party,” we heard rave reviews. Another classic West Texas experience is chasing the mysterious Marfa Lights, which show up after midnight and add to the town’s already otherworldly charm if you can spot this bizarre phenomenon.
Sunday: The Long Road Back
We grabbed a final breakfast at Asters Café and Bakery (get the lemon ricotta pancakes!) before returning to Midland’s tiny airport. This drive is stunning, and if you leave early enough, stop at Fort Davis State Park to visit the famous adobe-style Native American lodge tucked into the mountains. You also pass by the Balmorhea State Park, where you can cool off or see one of the state’s biggest natural spring pools.
Our West Texas road trip perfectly combined nature, art, and a little bit of mystery, leaving us with some unanswered questions and treasured memories. If you’re looking for a unique adventure off the beaten path, put Big Bend, Terlingua, and Marfa on your road trip bucket list.
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